Maine!

I am so lucky that, many moons ago, David’s kids went to camp in Maine.

On the night before or after visiting day, or both, he’d stop at a lobster pound and devour an enormous lobster that he would tell me about later – the fun, gluttony and luscious nature of it made my mouth water – and that, coupled with his description of the beauty of Maine sealed the deal: one day, he and I would experience it together.   

Some 15 years ago, we began our Maine summer tradition, starting at Bar Harbor, where we thoroughly enjoyed Acadia National Park and the surrounding areas, as well as the charming Ogunquit, with its scenic Marginal Way and Perkins Cove. These locations left us wanting to explore more coastal towns and since Matthew, David’s son, had taken a camp trip to Boothbay Harbor and liked it so much, we decided to go there next.   

It was love at first sight for me, both exciting and immediately comforting, like an old pair of jeans, or a familiar smell that made me relax at once. Since then, the more I go to Boothbay Harbor, the more I want to go, and the more at home I feel.

For the past decade, our Maine jaunts have been divided between Boothbay Harbor and Camden, a picturesque town on the water, but once the innkeeper we knew and loved sold her B&B and two of our favorite eateries closed (including a fantastic lobster pound), we haven’t had the same desire to return.

After we were vaccinated this past winter, we felt encouraged to go somewhere we had sorely missed. We made our reservation for Boothbay Harbor only and I, for one, could not wait.

We were met in Portland after landing last week by a monsoon (thanks Elsa) and chilly temperatures (60s), but we did not care. We drove directly to our number one lobster spot called Boothbay Lobster Wharf, a working lobster dock where you can dine and watch local fishermen unload their catch. It takes some 25 minutes from ordering the whole steamed lobster to diving into it so, as I waited, I looked over the tie-dyed sweatshirts, picked one out and put it on immediately, not only to warm up but to help me remember that moment forever.

Once the lobsters were ready, I was so happy to savor each bite, made even sweeter as I marveled over the grit involved in keeping the lobster industry alive. It has taken massive efforts in every direction to maintain the livelihoods of lobster fishermen due to the challenges of climate variability and change, crippling tariffs, and other factors impacting every aspect of the business, and this was all before COVID created severe upheaval and closures.  

When we arrived at our B&B, everything looked status quo – especially with check-in time corresponding with low-tide and muddy flats as compared with the beautiful site of water during high tide. The proprietor welcomed us back with a nice big smile and then shared with us that the shortage of help has handicapped businesses throughout the town.  

Later that evening, when the rain let up a bit, I took a walk on the Boothbay Foot Bridge, the singular best place in all of Boothbay Harbor. This is a 1,000-foot wooden structure that connects one side of the harbor to the other, built originally in 1901 by Luther Maddocks for $1,500, with many renovations and repairs since. The views to and from this bridge are stunning, day and night, and feeling that harbor breeze as if we are walking on the water itself is just heavenly.   

As I look back at all the years we’ve spent in Maine, what comes to mind is not what we’ve done there, but how we feel there.